Twelve thousand years ago, Britain was the colourless, glacial extremity of a continuous landmass which reached east to Kamchatka and south to Table Mountain. A low, undulating plain - Doggerland - linked the higher ground of south-eastern Britain with rising land between the Rhine and Elbe. Glaciers mantled the peaks of northern Britain and an ice cap covered Rannoch Moor to a depth of 400 metres. There is no evidence of human presence in Britain during this Big Freeze - now known as the Younger Dryas.
In around 9700 BC the climate abruptly changed. Mean July temperatures may have leapt by as much as 7ºC in as little as 50 years. Glaciers creaked and shattered. Glens trembled under meltwater cataracts. Rock walls collapsed. Hundreds of millions of tons of loose stone was water-worked across valley floors. Lakes accumulated behind barricades of moraine.
By 9500 BC, the 400-metre cap of ice on Rannoch Moor had disappeared and exposed a puddled waste. The northern glaciers had gone. The tundra had thawed.
Naked of ice, Britain’s landscape was sculpted with glacial features ranging from deep, U-shaped valleys, to stony moraines to lakes. In the east of Britain, low lying land was occupied by wetlands.
Britain's human habitat was built on spectacular foundations. Beneath this northern extension of the European mainland were rocks spanning three billion years, half the age of the planet. During various eras in the deep past, this part of the earth’s crust had been seared by desert heat, scoured by freshwater torrents, blasted by volcanoes, submerged beneath oceans, and subject to shifts in tectonic plates. The result was an extravagant geology ranging from black basalt to glittering quartz, red sandstone to blue-grey slate and bone-white chalk.
Into this warming land walked some hominids. Over the next 12,000 years, the thermal window opened by climate change would admit 64 million people.
The Mendip Hills: limestone country. Rivers ran underground through tunnels and caverns. Stands of birch and pine, and tracts of open grassland were shared with bear and lynx, wolf and boar . . .
The western edge of the plateau was pierced by the most spectacular gorge in Britain: a winding chasm walled with cliffs and anthropomorphic outcrops.
It took nerve to venture along the shadowed floor of this gorge, over the tumbled boulders and toppled trees, beneath a jagged-edged ceiling. Cave systems here were the setting for Britain’s earliest known cemetery, dated to 8400-8200 BC.
In 6200 BC an earth tremor triggered an underwater landslide off the Norwegian coast which sent a tsunami careering towards Britain. Due to sea-level rise, Doggerland had been shrinking by the century. It may have been the tsunami that finally inundated the ‘landbridge’ and turned Britain into an island.
Marooned on the new island were over 500 million mammals. A very small proportion of them were humans; foraging and hunting seashores, woods and glades.
Every Spring, most of Britain was stippled with billions of leaves. The distribution of tree species was uneven and mobile. At its peak (say between 5000 and 4000 BC), the wildwood covered around 60 per cent of Britain, and three-quarters of that woodland was deciduous. Around 20 per cent of Britain was grassland, and a little more than that was occupied by fenland, heaths and moors and various shrubs, herbs and ferns.
Approaching 4000 BC, the human record fades from the landscape. Afflicted by earth-system spasms, from climate change to tsunamis, it seems that Britain’s isolated groups of human foragers and hunters dwindled in numbers. It’s conceivable that the island was virtually uninhabited.
We’re nearly 6,000 years into our story, or about half of the total time that Britain has been continuously inhabited. Up until this time, natural earth systems had a far greater impact on landscapes than humans.
The rate of felling of the wildwood has varied over the last 6,000 years. The Caledonian forest that once covered the Scottish glens is reduced to fragments.
Map: OS One-inch Scotland, 2nd Edition (Hills), Sheet 74, 1900 © National Library of Scotland
The green areas on the map represent the current remnants of the original Caledonian forest in this area.
Based on the Forestry Commission's Caledonian Pine Inventory data.
The first great human shockwave to strike British landscapes arrived with continental migrants in around 4050 BC. They came by boat with domesticated cattle, pigs, sheep, wheat, barley, and a tradition of building above-ground burial chambers and gigantic rectangular timber houses.
They were also miners, excavating pits and tunnels in chalk bedrock to extract flint. The incomers were alterers of the earth: their way of life required that the land should be taken and shaped. And they did it at scale. Over the next two thousand years, Britain became stippled with earthworks and monuments that included flint mines, tombs, barrows, enclosures and henges.
Ritual landscapes evolved where a variety of monuments became connected by a belief system.
In its vast, interconnected entirety, the complex on the River Avon was unique in its scale, spectacle and in the human resources consumed in its construction. Its initial form and successive remodelling over the centuries were British events, unifying enterprises that reflected the vision of a single island culture. For several centuries, its megalithic silhouettes were touchstones in the impermanent world of the pastoralists.
One of the more poignant sights as dusk closed over the age of the megalithic henge was the burial by wind-blown sand of the neat little stone houses close to the western shore of Orkney. The dressers filled with sand, the stone drains clogged, roofs collapsed and pastures disappeared beneath barren dunes.
The most spectacular, final flourish from the age of giganticism can still be seen on the valley floor of the Kennet, a mile or so from Britain’s largest stone circle, at Avebury, in Wiltshire.
Work began in around 2400 BC when a number of small, artificial mounds were piled close to the riverside...
The mound stopped rising when its summit stood 31 metres above the vale and the final diameter had stretched to 160 metres.
Observed from the surrounding hills it took the form of a cone, but a cosmic viewpoint from above would have revealed that the base of the mound seemed to have nine sides and that the summit was rectangular. It appears to have been a polyhedron. By the time the last antler pick was laid to rest, half a million tons of material had been shifted by hand and the great polyhedron had become the largest artificial mound in Europe.
But around 1500 BC, gods and ancestors were usurped by the plough. In the words of the eminent pre-historian Barry Cunliffe:
'communities started to impose themselves on the landscape …to take hold of the land itself and to tame it for once and for all.’
Field systems spread, and as food processing became more efficient, the population grew.
The rectilinear field-banks of Dartmoor have come to be known as ‘reaves’, from an Old English word, raew, meaning ‘a row’. The field-banks may have been topped by hedges. There were ditches too, now filled with silt. People lived and worked, laughed and bickered among these patterns of piled stone. The angle of reaves relative to gradients may have been intended to create tripartite units, each with a section of valley, slope and upland. The open upland was probably grazed as a common, available to the whole community.
These vestigial reaves on Holme Moor are the fossilised conductors of an intensifying agricultural economy that spread like capillaries of molten metal across southern Britain from the middle centuries of the second millennium BC.
By 800 BC, anxiety was being recorded in the landscape. Hilltop enclosures evolved into hillforts like Maiden Castle. At Mai Dun (it’s Celtic name translates as ‘great hill’ or ‘principal fort’), the tilted earth wall behind the ditch rose for over 25 metres at an angle that would have been all but impossible for an attacker to scale . . .Mai Dun grew to be the most spectacular of its kind, eventually accumulating three banks and two ditches, with an additional bank and ditch on its southern side and two opposing entrances which appeared to be competing for complexity.
Calleva Atrebatum (also known as Silchester) was an oppidum, one of Britain’s earliest towns: a nucleus of population; an enclosed place of economic significance where raw materials were processed, coins struck and products made, stored and traded; the kind of place where merchants and the military could stock-up.
By 60 BC or so, there were over a dozen major enclosed oppida in the south-east. Some oppida had a political role as a centre of local government. They were settlements with a long reach.
Unfortunately for Britain’s emerging urban culture, the island was invaded at this point by an army of psychopathic builders.
The men who embarked for Britain were a fighting force and a building machine. Among the legionaries were carpenters, masons, engineers, metalworkers, architects and surveyors together with specialists in logistics: the clerks and book-keepers. Along with their helmet, armour, shield, javelins and short stabbing swords, each soldier carried a pair of sharpened stakes and a dolabra, a long-handled tool with an iron head that functioned as both an axe and an adze.
A legion on the move built a marching-camp each night, excavating a rectangular ditch and then lining the berm on the inside of the ditch with their stakes. Drilled work-squads could build at speed an extraordinary range of structures, from forts and barracks to causeways, bridges and roads. Stone-walled forts like this one on Hardknott Pass in Cumbria were more permanent structures.
Video: Hardknott Roman Fort, Cumbria
By AD 70, a hot spring on the Avon sacred to the Celtic goddess, Sulis, had been upgraded for a Romanised clientele by the construction of a massive stone reservoir lined with lead, which provided a head of water for an adjacent suite of baths and hypocaust rooms. With time, the curative waters were rebranded Aquae Calidae, Hot Waters, although they remained better-known as Aquae Sulis, the Waters of Sulis. In an aerial view of Bath the site remains a major feature.
The legions stayed for just under 400 years. They left 500 military camps and at least 300 forts and fortresses in various states of disrepair. The island had been cut into three by a long wall and a long bank, and diced into segments by roads.
Around 2,000 villas had been built, and perhaps as many as 100,000 other farms and rural sites. Maybe 20 or 30 of the villas were extravagant enough to be described as palatial. The largest Roman edifices were the hundred or so towns that dotted the southern part of Britain. At their peak, they may have been home to around 240,000 people, give or take 50,000.
The collapse of the Roman Empire left Britain strewn with ruins. Towns disappeared entirely from the British landscape.
Resiliant urbanisation began in 880 AD with the defended burhs of King Alfred of Wessex.
Viewed by satellite, the rectilinear grid and axial primary streets of Wareham might suggest a super-sized legionary fortress, and when you alight from the London train and walk across North Bridge the impression of military planning is reinforced by the prospect from the stone cutwaters over the limpid Piddle.
The north side of town is obscured by an artificial bank so high that it hides the houses behind.
Beyond the bank, ‘North Walls’ tracks the Piddle for a couple of hundred metres before turning a sharp right-angle and becoming ‘West Walls’.
On the opposite side of town, there’s a street called ‘East Walls’ and a road called ‘Bestwall’.
The oldest church in town is known as St Martin’s-on-the-Walls.
The extent of Wareham burh
On three sides, Wareham is rimmed by a looming turf barricade and on the fourth, it’s protected by the tidal currents of the Frome. The world outside must have been a very threatening place indeed.
Map: Lidar imagery showing elevation
Towns proved resilient provided they were secure and had a market and space for expansion.
The ‘Gough Map’ is the most detailed cartographic description of Britain from the medieval period. It was compiled during the middle decades of the 14th century and shows an island dotted with hundreds of settlements, among them 40 walled towns. The prominence of rivers reflects their medieval significance.
By the 16th century, Britain had reached a peak of diversity. At one extreme, the city of London had swollen to a population of 75,000 and its ‘heat island effect’ was adding 4ºC to its urban temperatures. Nearly 20 times more coal was being burned in London in 1500 than in 1300.
At the other end of the island, the north west of Scotland was still prowled by wolves. In the late 1500s, the mapmaker Timothy Pont labelled it ‘Extreem Wildernes’.
Among the National Library of Scotland's greatest treasures are the earliest surviving detailed maps of Scotland, made by Timothy Pont over 400 years ago, in the 1580s and 1590s.
Beside the word ‘Wildernes’, he drew a pair of peaks divided by a feature he labelled ‘Woolfs Way’.
The last major tracts of Britain’s wilderness disappeared in the 17th century. Led by Dutch engineers, labourers dug dykes, diverted rivers and installed wind-pumps to drain the post-glacial wetlands of eastern England.
In fens from the Humber to Cambridgeshire, natural watercourses were supplemented by grids of dykes.
Species-rich fens were transformed into productive farmland.
Draining the wetlands became part of a bigger project to extend river navigation by constructing artificial ‘cuts’ - canals - to provide freight links for the Industrial Revolution
The meanders and inefficient flash-locks of shallow river systems could be bypassed by purpose-built canals with regulated depths and no currents.
From 1757 with the opening of the 12-mile Sankey Brook Navigation in south Lancashire, a completely new system of waterways began to connect Britain’s coal fields and industrial centres...
In the 1730s there had been around 1,200 miles of navigable rivers in Britain, many of them improved. One century later, canals had extended that total to around 4,000 miles of navigable waterways.
It had been a remarkable - if partial - transformation. But canals were regional. They did not form an all-embracing system. Most of Scotland, Wales, the West Country and Pennines still lay beyond the reach of navigable waterways.
By 1830, the great age of canal construction had run its course. Steam was the new transformative force.
The world’s first twin-tracked, steam-hauled railway opened between Liverpool and Manchester in 1830.
Edge-rails crept across England, southern Scotland and southern and northern Wales.
By 1840, London had become the most defined hub of the network and by 1852, most major towns and cities in Britain were connected, with eastern and western extensions to Glasgow and Edinburgh while a line from Gloucester ran west through the industrial south of Wales.
Over 7,000 miles of track were laid in twenty years, far outstretching the eventual 4,000-mile total for inland navigation and canals.
The idea of the planned town had been around since at least the 1500s, when Thomas More wrote of his Utopian urban hubs. But the most striking early example was the New Town planned by the Convention of Royal Burghs of Scotland in 1752.
By the late 1770s, Edinburgh had recast its own geography:
There was old Edinburgh, crookedly strung along its mountain spine; and there beside it was new Edinburgh, a grid of broad streets pinned to the crest of the whaleback by two huge squares, one at each end. As striking as the contrast in street plans was the similarity of scale: the new town was as big as the old.
Map: John Ainslie, 1780 © National Library of Scotland
By the 19th century, population and industry were growing too fast for Utopian town-planning to keep up. London had become the world’s largest city.
Land was being consumed as if it was an infinite resource. In the fifty years from 1801, the population of England more than doubled, from 8.3 million, to 16.9 million; the population of Wales nearly doubled, to 1.06 million; the population of Scotland had increased by 56 percent, to 2.9 million.
By 1841, the balance had tipped and Britain became more than half-urban, with 51 per cent of the population living in towns and cities.
By 1900, the population had nearly doubled again [in 50 years] and only one-fifth of people were living in what could be called ‘rural landscapes’.
Arts and Crafts model villages like Port Sunlight and Bournville (shown here) were isolated experiments.
By the peak of the Industrial Revolution, the urban reality was tight-packed, developer-built terraces.
Utopia turns out to be the semi. In England at least, the most popular type of dwelling is the semi-detached house.
With its two living rooms, kitchen, three bedrooms and indoor bathroom, neatly framed by a front garden, side access and a back garden with space for a vegetable plot, the semi was - and arguably still is - all an urbanite could ask for. It was almost a country house. Readers of the 1920 edition of Metro-land were tempted with a new batch of semis going up in Wembley Park, at £1,200 each.
Eventually 4.9 million semis would comprise 31 per cent of the country’s total housing stock.
By the end of the Fifties, maps of England and Wales were marking the boundaries of national parks in the Peak District, the Lake District, Snowdonia, Dartmoor, the Pembrokeshire Coast, the North York Moors, the Yorkshire Dales, Exmoor, Northumberland and the Brecon Beacons... Rolled-out at astonishing scale and speed, the national parks were a last-ditch measure to halt the advancing diggers. Later, The Broads, Loch Lomond and the Trossachs, Cairngorms, New Forest and South Downs were added to the National Park ‘family’.
The two main factors forcing landscape change are climate and humans.
Cutting emissions of greenhouse gases will reduce the risk of extreme climate change. One of the key technological measures is the switch from burning fossil fuels to the development of renewable energy.
Only 12,000 years have passed since this island was an uninhabited wilderness of ice and tundra. Today, the landscapes of Britain are the habitat of 64 million humans.
In England, 89 per cent of the land area is not ‘urban’. In Wales, the figure is 96 per cent and in Scotland, 98 per cent.
If the urban ‘green space’ is added to the countryside, the total ‘natural’ cover in England rises to 98 per cent. In Scotland and Wales, the figure is over 99 per cent.
The challenge facing the custodians of Britain’s landscapes - us - is to protect and improve the quality of our entire environment, from natural ecosystems to cities.
A Story Map created by Esri UK using Esri's Story Map Cascade app.
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